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Carl Davaz

Pan Bagnat (pahn bah nyah, saying the 'n' in pan through your nose) is a make-ahead sandwich from the south of France that's a whole meal, perfect for picnics.

The filling is tuna, tomatoes, olives, some greens and a garlicky olive oil. And anchovies. Don't let the anchovies scare you away. If you love anchovies, the more the better. If you don't, adding a small squeeze of anchovy paste to the dressing will add depth, but you probably won't realize exactly what it is. Squeeze out about as much as the amount of toothpaste you'd use.

Make sure you use a sturdy artisan bread. A round loaf produces nice wedges, but a ciabatta shape works, too, as would individual rolls.

If you have to really pull to rip the loaf apart, you've got the right one. A soft loaf would disintegrate, leaving you with mush-tasty mush, but not what we're after here.

Cut the loaf in half and pull out some of the insides to leave a generous shell. Don't discard the pulled-out bread. Place the chunks on a baking sheet, drizzle with olive oil and toss to coat. Season with salt and pepper. Bake in a 435-degree oven until browned and crispy. Use the croutons in salad or drop into soup. A dusting of grated Parmesan before baking would add flavor and crispness.

The pan bagnat is easy to assemble. It's prettiest when the ingredients are carefully and evenly layered. Use a good olive oil for the dressing, one with a fruity peppery flavor that stands out. Cheese isn't traditional, but a creamy fresh mozzarella seems at home with the pungent salty filling. Think Mediterranean rather than strictly French.

The sandwich needs to rest, smashed under pressure, to compact the filling and allow the flavors to develop. Don't be gentle. Wrap the bread very tightly while pressing firmly. Put the sandwich on a rimmed baking tray in case of seepage and weight with either a cast-iron skillet or some cans of food on a dinner plate. Let rest in the refrigerator for at least a couple of hours, but longer is fine.

Slice into six or eight edges and be generous when handing out napkins. Pour a nice dry rosé and you'll think you're in the south of France, or at least in the south of the Willamette Valley.

Pan Bagnat

Serves 4 to 8, depending on greediness.

• One crusty round loaf of bread
• 1 large clove garlic (or 2 small), pressed or finely chopped
• 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
• ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
• 2 tablespoons capers
• Salt and pepper to taste
• 2 6.5 oz cans tuna packed in olive oil (not water or regular oil), drained, reserving oil or 3/4 pound tuna, grilled
• Handful of mixed baby lettuces
• Handful of basil leaves
• 6 to 8 very thin slices of red onion
• 6 to 8 ounces sliced or shredded fresh mozzarella,
• 2 red or yellow roasted bell peppers (jarred is fine), cut in thin strips
• 1/2 cup coarsely chopped purply black olives (Nicois or Kalamata)
• 5 or 6 thin slices of tomato
• 8 anchovies or 1-inch anchovy paste

Lay two large overlapping pieces of plastic wrap on the work surface. Cut the bread in half crosswise through the middle; hollow out the bread, leaving about a 3/4-inch shell.

Combine the garlic, vinegar, olive oil and capers. (Add the anchovy paste.) Add the oil from the cans of tuna or add 1/4 cup more olive oil. Whisk well, then season with salt and pepper. Drizzle lavishly on the insides of the bread shell; place bottom in the center of the plastic wrap.

Evenly distribute the lettuce and basil in the bottom shell. Layer on tuna, onion, mozzarella, peppers, olives, tomatoes and anchovies.

Place top on sandwich. Pressing down, wrap very snugly with plastic wrap. Place on a rimmed baking sheet or tray. Place a weight on top. Place in refrigerator for at least 2 hours. Cut into wedges to serve. This sandwich is best at room temperature.

Other options: For vegetarians, replace tuna with grilled or sautéed mushrooms or eggplant. You can also use halibut, salmon or grilled chicken in place of tuna. Replace mozzarella with crumbled feta.

Individual sandwiches: Fill 4 to 6 sturdy rolls and wrap individually.

Kim Davaz of Eugene writes the biweekly Eating In column.