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‘Hands-on’ instructions for serious barbecuing

Little grilling book is packed with recipes and information

By Kim Davaz

If you find yourself drawn to the outdoor grill when you should be shopping for sandpaper or light bulbs; if the aroma of your neighbor’s grill has you up against the fence; if you find yourself looking for a hat that includes an umbrella so you can grill in the rain; then Adam Perry Lang’s “BBQ 25” has your name written all over it.

Lang calls “BBQ 25” the “backbone of barbecue” that includes his best recipes with the least fuss for the foods you’ll barbecue the most often.

“BBQ 25” is a board book with an ingenious binding that allows it to open so the pages lie flat. And, like board books for sticky baby fingers, you can wipe the pages clean with a damp cloth. You’ll appreciate that because Lang wants you to use your hands. Crush those herbs. Massage that marinade into the meat. Test for doneness by gently touching the meat.

The glossary of techniques at the beginning of the book includes a series of pictures to determine the level of doneness by pressing on your palm, plus a list of corresponding temperatures. A little drawing shows the author’s improvised basting brush made of herbs tied to a wooden spoon handle with twine.

This is also where Lang explains terms. Recipes will refer to his buddy system of flip (turning to manage caramelization), jockey (move meat to another area - cooler or hotter), and stack (stack meat that needs a little rest from the flames on another piece of meat.) Seasoning also has its own set of terms, such as to season “like rain,” meaning to sprinkle the seasoning to distribute it evenly with your hand held some distance above the food.

It also has recipes for a basic baste mixture and “board” dressing. Omit the herbs from the baste if you’re using an herb basting brush. Board dressing is a combination of olive oil, parsley, salt and pepper that is poured onto the cutting board for the meat to rest on after cooking and before cutting.

The recipes are arranged by type of meat (beef, pork, lamb, chicken, fish), and finally “miscellaneous,” including hot dogs, sausages and vegetables. Within the sections, recipes are sorted by length of cooking time. The book is so short, there’s no need for an index. You can find everything you need with a look at the table of contents or a quick flip through the pages.

Each recipe includes the tools and techniques needed, ingredients, instructions and lots of photos. It’s amazing what fits into these few pages.

“BBQ 25” is a book to keep by the grill tools. You’ll want to refer to it often, until Lang’s techniques and recipes become your own.

If you have friends who like lamb, invite them over when you make this recipe for lamb chops with a special board dressing.

Lamb Chops

• 18 lamb rib or saddle chops (2 1/2 to 3 1/2 ounces each)

Herb oil:

• 1/2 cup olive oil
• 2 tablespoons freshly ground black pepper
• 1 tablespoon garlic salt
• 1 tablespoon onion powder
• 2 bunches fresh oregano

Baste:

• 1/4 cup olive oil
• 4 tablespoons unsalted butter
• 10 crushed garlic cloves
• 1/4 cup total finely chopped savory herbs, such as rosemary, thyme, marjoram, oregano and/or sage

Board dressing:

• 1/2 cup olive oil
• 1/2 cup chopped fresh mint
• 1/2 cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
• Grated zest of 1 lemon
• Juice of 1/2 lemon
• 1 1/2 teaspoons grated or finely chopped garlic

Combine herb oil ingredients in a large bowl or sealable plastic bag. Mix and crush the ingredients with your hands, directly or through the bag, squeezing them to release the maximum flavor.

Put the chops in the herb oil and let them absorb the flavors for at least 2 hours, and up to 24 hours. If standing longer than 2 hours, refrigerate the chops.

Preheat the barbecue to medium-high, and set a griddle on the grill. Combine all the baste ingredients in a foil pan or small heatproof pan and set on the side of the grill.

Drain the chops and dry with paper towels. Squeeze a splash of lemon juice over the chops and season “like rain” with salt.

Put the chops on the well-oiled, preheated grill and cook until medium-rare. Press on the chops as needed throughout cooking with a bacon press or foil-wrapped brick to maintain grill contact, and baste regularly, using a regular brush or herb brush.

Flip, jockey and stack the chops as needed to manage the inevitable flare-ups, and use the griddle to rest the chops if necessary. When the chops are nicely caramelized and charred on both sides, approximately 6 to 9 minutes total, they are done.

Meanwhile, combine all the ingredients for the board dressing in a bowl, mixing well.

When the chops are done, pour the dressing onto a cutting board and turn each chop individually in the dressing to coat.

Serves 6.

Kim Davaz writes a biweekly cookbook review column for The Register-Guard.