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Cooking for two has never been easier

By Kim Davaz

There is no challenge too large or too small for the America’s Test Kitchen crew. In “Cooking for Two 2009: The Years’ Best Recipes Cut Down to Size,” they’ve begun a new annual cookbook to make life easier (and more delicious) for those who want to cook for two.

Cooking for two, especially if you’ve been used to cooking for more, can be a challenge. How much to buy? What about leftovers? Relax. The America’s Test Kitchen crew has figured this all out.

The “Smart Shoppers Guide” at the beginning gives you a chart of ingredients and what dishes can be made from them. A head of Napa cabbage can be made into Teryaki-Glazed Salmon Fillets plus Tart and Tangy Slaw. One can of coconut milk will make both Steamed Mussels in Coconut Milk and Coconut Rice Pudding. These two pages will help you plan for successive meals.

This section also talks about kitchenware, especially specialized bakeware: 8-inch square baking dishes rather than the more standard 9-inch, and glass loaf pans for lasagna.

Baking can be a real problem for two. Not any more. A raspberry nectarine pie small enough for two is baked in a 6-inch pie pan. Mini versions of cake pans (also 6 inches, for an adorable two-layer yellow cake with chocolate frosting), ramekins and springform pans (two 4 1/2 -inch pans to make twin New York cheesecakes) will make fit-for-two desserts that are as cute as a button.

One of the nice things about this cookbook is that it gives you ideas on how to use leftover ingredients. The leftover ricotta cheese from the lasagna is turned into a spread with olive oil, garlic, lemon and basil. Or you could make lasagna with the ricotta left over from making the spread. It’s all in how you look at it.

“One Big Roast, Three Great Meals” takes you through roasting chicken breasts, turkey breasts, a beef chuck roast and a pork butt. Each of the four recipes comes with three additional recipes for the leftovers, so in addition to eating the roast as is, there will be enough leftovers to make two of the three options.

The “Last Minute Suppers from the Pantry” is the reason we all should have well-stocked pantries. Spaghetti With Fried Eggs is reminiscent of Pasta Carbonara without the bacon or pancetta, though if you do have a slice or two of pancetta or bacon, fry it up add it to the recipe. It’s perfect for people who like breakfast for dinner (or you could have it as supper for breakfast). This chapter relies a lot on eggs, including two soufflés, plus a few soups and quesadillas.

Recipes in “Fancy Dinners” are indeed up there on the la-de-dah scale, perfect for an anniversary or birthday: lobster on fresh fettucine, Chicken Kiev, duck breasts with a dried cherry wine sauce, herb-roasted single prime rib, and a rack of lamb. These are expensive ingredients at their best.

The recipes are long and wordy, as the editors at America’s Test Kitchen tend to go on a bit, but that’s because they leave no detail unwritten so everything will be perfect. They do have your best interests at heart.

“Cooking for Two” would make a good gift for someone moving into a first apartment alone, empty nesters and of course, as a wedding gift. Pack it up with a small baking dish to make the gift extra special.

Cheese Soufflé is from “Last Minute Meals from the Pantry” and has a spinach variation. Cheddar, Swiss or gouda cheese may be used instead of Gruyère in the soufflé.

A hand mixer might work better than a large stand mixer to whip the egg whites because of the small volume. A balloon whisk, a large bowl and good upper arm strength will also work.

The editors like using two 12-ounce ramekins to make the soufflés for the most impressive rise about the ramekins’ rims. A glass 9-by-5-inch loaf pan will work if you don’t have the ramekins.

Cheese Soufflé

• 1/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese
• 2 tablespoons unsalted butter
• 1 shallot, minced (about 3 tablespoons)
• Salt
• 2 tablespoons unbleached all-purpose flour
• 2/3 cup whole milk
• 2 1/2 ounces grated Gruyère cheese, shredded (about 2/3 cup)
• Pinch of dry mustard
• Pinch pepper
• Pinch ground nutmeg
• 2 large eggs, separated, at room temperature
• 1/8 teaspoon cream of tartar

Adjust an oven rack to the middle position and heat the oven to 350 degrees. Grease two 12-ounce ceramic ramekins, then sprinkle each ramekin with 1 tablespoon of the Parmesan and shake to coat evenly; tap out any excess cheese.

Melt the butter in a medium saucepan over medium heat.

Add the shallot and a pinch of salt and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 2 minutes.

Stir in the flour and cook until golden, about 1 minute.

Slowly whisk in the milk, bring to a simmer, and cook, whisking constantly, until thickened and smooth, about 1 minute.

Off the heat, whisk in the Gruyère, a pinch of salt, mustard, pepper and nutmeg. Scrape the mixture into a medium bowl, then whisk in the egg yolks until incorporated (this is the soufflé base.)

In a large bowl, whip the egg whites and cream of tartar together with an electric mixer on medium-low speed until foamy, about 2 minutes.

Increase the mixer speed to medium-high and continue to whip until the whites are glossy and form stiff peaks, 1 to 2 minutes.

Fold one-quarter of the whipped egg whites into the soufflé base until almost no white streaks remain. Fold in the remaining egg whites until just incorporated.

Gently pour the mixture evenly into the prepared dishes, wiping any mixture from the rims with a wet paper towel.

Trace a circle in the surface of the soufflé mixture about 1/2 inch from the side of the dish (this will help the soufflé to rise evenly). Sprinkle the tops with the remaining 2 tablespoons Parmesan.

Place the soufflés on a rimmed baking sheet and bake until their surfaces are deep brown, the centers jiggle slightly when shaken, and they have risen 2 to 2 1/2 inches above the rims of the dishes, 20 to 22 minutes. Serve immediately.

Spinach Soufflé variation: Follow the recipe for Cheese Soufflé, stirring 2 ounces chopped frozen spinach, thawed and squeezed dry, and 1/8 teaspoon dried thyme into the soufflé base with the egg yolks.

Kim Davaz writes a biweekly cookbook review column for The Register-Guard.

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