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Carl Davaz

Ratatouille, a vegetable stew from the south of France, is traditionally cooked on top of the stove, but grilling the vegetables adds even more flavor to the mix. The amounts of each vegetable are very flexible, but try for balance of flavors. Make more than you need because the leftovers get better and better.

It's important when grilling to make sure the items are secure on skewers. If you use two parallel skewers, whether metal or soaked bamboo, the vegetables will stay more stable on the grill and will behave better when turning. Vegetables on the same skewers should be of the same size and density so they'll cook in the same amount of time.

Ratatouille will keep for several days in the refrigerator. When served cold, it may need additional salt. Serve as a side dish, as a bed for a piece of grilled fish, or mashed to spread on grilled bread.

It makes a wonderful pizza. Scatter warmed ratatouille on an partially baked pizza crust, topping it with chunks of mozzarella or goat cheese. Cook until crust is crisp and cheese is softened. Drizzle with olive oil and sprinkle with fresh thyme or more basil before serving.

Ratatouille

• 1 large eggplant, cubed
• 3 bell peppers, mixed colors, cut in half, cored and seeded
• 1 large onion, cut in thick slices
• 1 pint whole cherry tomatoes or halved plum tomatoes
• 2 summer squash (yellow crookneck, zucchini, pattypan), cut in thick slices
• 1 head garlic, top sliced off, drizzled with olive oil and wrapped tightly in foil
• Extra-virgin olive oil
• Salt and pepper
• 3 tablespoons roughly chopped basil or scant 1 tablespoon dried
• 1 tablespoon thyme or 1 teaspoon dried
• 3 tablespoons roughly chopped flat-leaf parsley

Put garlic on grill and cook, turning it occasionally, until quite soft when squeezed. Place vegetables (except peppers) on skewers. Brush with olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Grill until browned and quite soft.

Push vegetables off skewers into a serving bowl. Squeeze garlic (some or all, depending on how much you like garlic) into bowl. Toss vegetables with herbs to taste. Add a generous drizzle of olive oil and check seasonings. Sprinkle with parsley. Serve at any temperature.

Variation: Go sort of Southwestern by grilling a few whole hot peppers until blackened. Remove seeds, if desired, to cut back on the heat, and chop before adding to the other vegetables. Omit basil and thyme. Top with chopped cilantro instead of parsley.

Kim Davaz of Eugene writes the biweekly Eating In column.