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Make sweet and spicy summer dreams come true

By Kim Davaz

On a really hot day, the only thing that sounds good to eat is something cold from the freezer. Sarah Engram and Katie Luber, owners of the Seasoned Palate, which produces spice blends, have raised the flavor bar for frozen treats. In “Spice Dreams: Flavored Ice Creams and Other Frozen Treats,” they (with Nancy Meadows and Kimberly Toqe) combine ice creams, sorbets and frozen yogurts with toppings and baked items to make an almost never-ending combination of treats.

The first and easiest recipe for spiced ice cream is to add your own favorite spices to your favorite purchased ice cream. This is a great way to start, giving you the ability to make individual servings of different spice combinations rather than making a whole batch of one kind.

Most recipes are decidedly adult, unless you have children with educated palates: Chili-Lemongrass Ice Cream; Almond Ice Cream With Turmeric, Cardamom and Cloves; Dark Chocolate-Anise Ice Cream; Coconut-Ginger Sorbet; and Marjoram-Mint-Coconut Sorbet. On the more mainstream side are Pineapple Coconut Sorbet and Spiced Apple Ice Cream.

One of the prettiest sorbets is pink grapefruit-tarragon, which is shown in all its pale pinkness as a Popsicle. In fact, it would be a great party idea to make an assortment of the desserts in Popsicle form.

Because the authors make spice blends, the recipes call for dried spices and herbs, including dried citrus peels. I’d be inclined to make them at least with fresh herbs, especially the pink grapefruit tarragon sorbet. You’ll want to use from two to three times as much fresh herbs as you would dried.

The book ends with an assortment of spicy cookies; meringues; waffles; crispy edible bowls and cones; and a waffle to be used to make more elaborate desserts.

Brown Sugar and Spiced Banana Ice Cream might remind you of Bananas Foster blended and refrozen. Make sure not to use a banana on the green side here. You want one that’s just beginning to get a hint of brown speckles.

Brown Sugar and Spiced Banana Ice Cream

• 1 medium ripe banana
• 1/4 cup plus 1 3/4 cups whole milk
• 1/2 cup plus 1/2 cup firmly packed brown sugar (light or dark)
• 1 teaspoon ground ci
• 1 teaspoon ground cardamom
• 1 teaspoon ground nutmeg
• 1/8 teaspoon salt
• 4 large egg yolks
• 2 cups whipping cream
• 1 teaspoon vanilla

Puree the banana and 1/4 cup of the milk in a food processor until smooth. Combine the banana puree, the remaining 1 3/4 cups milk, 1/2 cup of the brown sugar, the cinnamon, cardamom, nutmeg and salt in a pan over medium-high heat, stirring often, for 5 minutes.

While the milk is scalding, whisk together the egg yolks in a medium mixing bowl. Add the remaining 1/2 cup brown sugar and whisk until the eggs are light and fluffy. Whisking constantly, add a small amount of the hot milk to the egg mixture. Gradually whisk in the remaining hot milk.

Return the custard mixture to the pan and cook over medium-low heat, stirring often, until the custard is thick enough to coat the back of a spoon, about 5 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and place in a bowl of ice water to quickly cool the custard. Let the custard cool, stirring often, for 5 minutes.

While the custard is cooling, combine the cream and the vanilla in a medium bowl. Stir in the custard mixture. Cover with plastic wrap and press the wrap directly onto the surface of the custard. Refrigerate until completely chilled, at least 4 hours or overnight.

The custard may be stored in the refrigerator for up to 3 days. Freeze the chilled custard mixture in an ice-cream maker according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Transfer the ice cream to an airtight container and freeze in the freezer for 2 to 4 hours before serving.

Kim Davaz writes a biweekly cookbook review column for The Register-Guard.

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