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Visit the flavors of Scandinavia

By Kim Davaz

“The Scandinavian Cookbook” is Trina Hahnemann’s yearlong journey through the beauty and food of Scandinavia, month by month, beginning in January.

In her past life, Hahnemann was a caterer to people you may have heard of: Elton John, the Rolling Stones and Bruce Springsteen. These days, the chef and food writer lives in Denmark, where she owns cafes, including one in the Danish House of Parliament.

Each month includes the foods that are best during that time of year, be it gooseberries in August, apples in October or root vegetables in the winter.

The Willamette Valley and Scandinavia have some foods in common: salmon, trout, lamb, mushrooms, nuts and fruits. Many recipes for side dishes in this book would suit Thanksgiving well, such as October’s Baked Root Vegetable Salad and a gratin of potatoes and celery root, or two salads from May - one with cauliflower and almonds, the other with carrots, parsley and pine nuts. December’s spiced cooked red cabbage would also work for the holiday, especially if you substitute turkey fat for the duck fat.

If you’re looking for soups, Hahnemann has them. A potato leek soup with bacon (Ocotber) and a cauliflower soup with grilled scallops (November) are almost meals in themselves, needing just a little salad and bread on the side. February’s fish soup is beautiful and extravagant with four kinds of seafood, a homemade stock, some cream for richness and a bit of saffron for color and aroma.

The photos by Lars Ranek are gorgeous. He captures the landscape, the cities and towns, the people and the finished dishes of Scandinavia with equal beauty.

“The Scandinavian Cookbook” would be a nice gift for someone enamored with that part of the world.

Brunsviger, a dish from Denmark, is a cross between bread and cake. The recipe in the “June” chapter calls for fresh yeast, which is not always available. Use one envelope (1/4 ounce) dry yeast instead. Granulated sugar will do if you don’t have superfine.

The problem with this cake, Hahnemann says, is that she can easily eat almost half if it by herself. Try to share yours, serving it at breakfast or with coffee or tea, the day you make it.

Brunsviger

• 1 generous cup lukewarm whole milk
• 2 ounces fresh yeast or a 1/4-ounce envelope dry yeast
• 2 eggs
• 6 tablespoons butter, melted
• 3 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
• 2 tablespoons superfine sugar
• Pinch of salt

Glaze:

• 3/4 cup packed dark brown sugar
• 1 cup butter

Pour the milk into a bowl, add the yeast, and stir with a wooden spoon until the yeast has dissolved.

Add the eggs and mix well, then add the melted butter.

Sift the flour with the sugar and salt, then stir the dry ingredients into the yeast mixture to make a dough.

When the dough comes cleanly from the edge of the bowl, transfer to a floured counter and knead for about 5 minutes.

Return the dough to the bowl and let rise at room temperature for 30 minutes.

Line a 16-by-20-inch baking dish with parchment paper and press the dough evenly in the dish.

Cover with a dish towel and let rise again for 15 minutes.

Make the glaze: Melt the brown sugar and butter together in a pan, stirring until the mixture is smooth and the sugar is no longer crunchy. Do not let it boil.

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees.

Press your fingertips down into the risen dough, making small indentations across the surface.

Spread the glaze evenly over the dough, leaving a 1/2-inch border.

Bake for 25 to 30 minutes, or until the sugar has melted and is brown and sticky.

Let the brunsviger cool a little before cutting into pieces and serving.

Serves 10.

Kim Davaz writes a biweekly cookbook review column for The Register-Guard.